FAQs Care Section - Mosaic Tiles


What is the chemical balance of your pool made up of?

As well as sanitisation (i.e. chlorine levels), you also need to chemically balance your pool water. The chemical balance of your pool is made up of:

 

- pH (acidity/alkalinity level)

- total alkalinity (TA)

- calcium hardness

 

How often should I check my pool chemical levels?

Obviously your goal is to maintain a pool in which your water is balanced. However, it is important to keep an eye on it as it may be in balance one day and then it won’t be the next (i.e. this could be caused by lots of rain, topping up the pool water with tap water, high bather load etc.). You should monitor your chlorine and pH levels at least once a week, or every day if your pool is in high use. Total alkalinity and calcium hardness levels can be monitored less frequently. You should test for Calcium Hardness levels when your pool is first started up and at least twice a year after that.


What are some symptoms of common pool water balance problems?

Corrosive water – corrosive water is caused by the following factors:  low pH, low calcium hardness and/or low Total Alkalinity (TA) or a combination of these factors. Corrosive water will reduce the strength of the grout and tile adhesive which may cause the tiles to fail down the track. Corrosive water also affects the longevity of pebble or render pools. Therefore, regardless of which interior finish you choose, it is important to maintain correct water chemistry, as damage caused by corrosive water can be very expensive to rectify. 

 

Scaling water – scaling water is caused by leaving the pool water with a high pH or high calcium hardness or high Total Alkalinity (TA) or a combination of these factors. As a result a calcium scale can deposit over the pool interior surface and internal pool fittings. If left to harden, this scale can be difficult to remove. Sometimes the only option to restore water balance is to discard some of your pool water and refill with fresh water.  N.B.  Most home pool test kits don’t test for calcium hardness so you need to take a pool water sample to your pool shop for testing. You should test for Calcium Hardness levels when your pool is first started up and at least twice a year after that.

 

Maintaining correct water chemistry is essential to maximize the life of your pool interior. Please consult your local pool shop or mobile pool service professional for advice and assistance with rebalancing your pool if the water has become corrosive or scale forming. 


Where can I find more information about pool water chemistry?

A quick internet search will provide plenty of detailed information on pool water chemistry and show you that water can be corrosive, balanced or scale forming. Please also consult your local pool shop or mobile pool service professional for advice and assistance with maintaining a balanced pool.

 

Can I empty my pool?

Yes you can but it is not a good idea to leave a concrete pool with an interior finish empty for lengthy periods i.e. over 3 days as this may expose it to significant temperature variations for which the tile adhesive, grout and pool interior may not be designed to withstand. 

 

FAQs Care Section - Natural Stone


How do I maximise the longevity of my natural stone pool coping and surround tiles?

There are many ways you can maximise the longevity of natural stone.  The aggressive environment of a swimming pool requires some special attention and consideration:


1. Natural stone should be sealed following installation with a consolidating, penetrating sealer such as Environex CSIRO tested ‘SYNERGY’. All exposed surfaces, including the underside of the coping that hangs over the edge of the pool must have adequate sealer applied, which varies depending on porosity of the stone. Please click here to view application and demonstration video for Synergy Sealing. All surrounding stone should be grouted. To protect your investment, it is recommended that resealing occurs every 2-3 years to mitigate the water ingress into the stone.  Professional approved applicators follow key guidelines to ensure that the stone is correctly cleaned and sealed that may facilitate longer intervals between resealing. Resealing is required when the stone allows water to rapidly penetrate, giving a wet darkened look. Most penetrating sealers are semi breathable thus some water ingress does occur over time, however the water penetration is greatly reduced.

 

2. It is recommended that pool owner should keep the water level at a minimum of 100mm from the pool coping. To help you do this, you can speak to your pool builder about the possibility of fitting a 40mm overflow pipe. Coping that is semi submersed in the swimming pool’s corrosive environment is extremely susceptible to salt attack as it will impact all sealer resins and allow rapid water ingress into the stone. If you observe the pool coping appearing damp due to a high water level, lower the water level immediately to prevent water ‘wicking’ into the stone and causing damage.

 

3. Remove staining matter quickly before it penetrates into the stone.  Sealing does not make Natural Stone ‘stain proof’ but it gives a window of opportunity to remove the stain and facilitate easier cleaning of the stone. If stone is not sealed some regular household stains may be difficult or impossible to remove.

 

4. Use a pH neutral cleaner such as Environex ‘REFRESH’ for regular cleaning and maintenance for the stone.  Avoid using acids or strong alkali products to clean as these will reduce the effectiveness of the sealer and may damage the stone.


Do I need to seal Natural Stone?

Yes, we recommend sealing of all natural stone products. Sealing does not make Natural Stone ‘stain proof’ but it gives a window of opportunity to remove the stain before it penetrates into the stone. Sealing also helps protect it from salt attack and pool chemicals. Also, many types of stone contain small amounts of minerals that may oxidize when exposed to the air and cause small tea like stains on the surface. Although these stains will disappear naturally over time, sealing can prevent them from occurring.


Is sealing difficult?

Not really, the most difficult job about sealing is the cleaning prior to sealing. For this reason it is best to stay on top of keeping your paved areas cleaned and sealed. We have recommended cleaners and sealers for each type of paving material we sell. Please click here to view application and demonstration video for Synergy Sealing.


Can I seal my Natural Stone myself?

Absolutely. Sealing is very easy to do. After cleaning the stone and allowing it to dry completely, two to three coats of sealer are usually applied with a garden sprayer or lambswool applicator, leaving a couple of hours between coats. In general, we recommend a ‘penetrating & consolidating’ type sealer that blocks the pores in the stone but doesn’t change the appearance of the product. This product does not need to be removed prior to resealing. Surface sealers are not recommended as they can decrease the slip resistance of the stone and may go milky when wet.


How often do I need to reseal the Natural Stone?

This depends on the type and quality of sealer used. In general, most sealers last two to three years depending on the type and brand. You need to reseal when you notice that it takes longer to dry out after it gets wet and/or water doesn’t bead on the surface.


Can I seal the stacked stone walling on my water feature?

No, we do not recommend sealing stone on water features as the constant water running over the stone can cause the sealer to look milky (i.e. white in appearance), which is unattractive, particularly on dark stones.


Can I lay natural stone products on top of crusher dust or road base instead of concrete?

Yes you can but they generally need to be thicker in height than our standard products to stand up to the greater movement. The thicker the product, the more expensive it is to buy but they can be custom ordered if you can afford to wait 8 – 14 weeks. The vast majority of professional layers only pave onto a concrete base. This eliminates the risks of movement and weeds.


My stone has only recently been laid but is showing some brown discolouration. What Is happening?

This is not uncommon. According to the Australian Stone Advisory Association, this is often caused by moisture percolating through concrete (in this case, the pool shell and/or surrounding slab) from which soluble alkali salts are leached. The salts are then carried by the moisture through the stone, where partially oxidised organic matter is picked up. This is then transported to the surface of the stone, where it is deposited as a stain as the moisture evaporates. It does not harm the stone, and if left alone the stain is removed naturally by the elements, usually in the course of a few months.

 

This is a natural reaction in a natural product and it is completely beyond our control as to when and where it may occur. If you wish, you can speed nature along by having the stone professionally cleaned and then sealed.

 



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